The Secret Language of Buttonholes

While often overlooked, the humble buttonhole is where tailoring artistry reveals itself. From sleeve cuffs to lapels, these functional details carry centuries of history and silent messages about a jacket’s provenance. Let’s take a quick dive into their secrets.

It's all about the details

You’ve never had to do up the button on your suit jacket’s sleeve, so why are there button holes there? Legend has it that Napoleon was tired of his men wiping their noses on their uniform sleeves, so he decreed that brass buttons be added to stop the dirty habit. Tradition also played a part, as in Victorian Britain, it was bad form to remove one’s jacket, so having a slit and buttons allowed a gentleman to rollup his sleeves when gardening or performing other manual tasks.

You may have noticed some people have a different number of buttons and button holes on their jackets. The count matters. Four Buttons: The hallmark of formalwear. Exudes tradition, often seen on bespoke suits. Three Buttons: Sporty and versatile; ideal for blazers or casual tailoring. Three buttons suggest ‘relaxed but formal’. Two Buttons: A more modern and fashion-forward statement.

Then you have to consider placement. A kissing buttonhole is where the edges touch - A subtle nod to sophistication. A waterfall buttonhole is where the buttons overlap on the jacket sleeve, giving a more dynamic look. You could opt for a 45-degree buttonhole which is more of an Italian elegance or you could simply choose a standard buttonhole placement and there’s nothing wrong with that; It’s a classic look!

Much as you’d tick the options list on a new car to customise it to your tastes, choosing Manesh Manolo Bespoke Couturier allows you to create clothing that’s unique to you. “Be yourself, everyone else is taken!”

Visit maneshmanolo.com to book a visit to the couturier in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong and see what makes us an award-winning tailor.

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